Well Pump Inspection: The Homeowner’s Checklist for Pressure & Check Valves

Your water pressure is acting erratic or your pump is cycling too often. A failing check valve is often the culprit, but you need to know what else to look for.

We will cover the five key things to check on your pump and pressure tank, how to spot a bad check valve, and the straightforward steps to clean or replace it.

I’ve pulled and serviced more submersible pumps and jet pumps than I can count. Here’s the truth: skipping these simple checks lets a small issue become a very expensive one.

Step One: How to Find and Access Your Well System

You can’t inspect what you can’t find. Start inside your house, typically in the basement, utility room, or garage. Look for the pressure tank. It’s a large, usually blue or gray, metal tank with a pressure gauge on it. The well pump’s control box is almost always mounted on a wall nearby.

Follow the large water pipe coming from the bottom of that pressure tank. This is your main water line. It will lead you directly outside to where the well is located, either into a well house or through the foundation to the yard.

If the well cap is buried, your property inspection report from when you bought the house should have a diagram showing its location. No report? A simple metal detector from a hardware store can find the buried metal casing. Once located, carefully clear away soil so you can see and access the cap properly.

Before you touch anything for an inspection, do these two things for safety. First, turn off the power to the well pump at the circuit breaker. Second, relieve the water pressure in the system by opening a faucet somewhere lower than the pressure tank, like a basement sink or outside hose bib. Let it run until water stops flowing and the pressure gauge reads zero.

The Homeowner’s Well Pump Inspection Checklist

This is a visual and operational check you can do yourself. We’ll work from the top down, starting outside at the well itself.

Above Ground: The Well Cap and Area

The well cap is your water’s first line of defense. It should be firmly attached, with a solid rubber gasket creating a tight seal. A loose or cracked cap lets in insects, dirt, and surface runoff. That’s a direct path for contamination.

Look at the ground immediately around the well casing. You should see no cracks in the concrete pad (if there is one). There should be no pooling water. Keep vegetation cleared back at least a foot. Your goal is to make sure surface water drains away from the well, not into it.

The Heartbeat: Testing the Pressure Tank

A healthy pressure tank ensures your pump doesn’t start every time you open a tap. First, do the “knock test.” With the system powered off and pressure relieved, knock on the tank’s shell with your knuckle. The top half should sound hollow (like an empty tank). The bottom half will sound solid (full of water). If the entire tank sounds solid, it’s waterlogged and needs to be recharged or replaced.

Next, check the air charge. With all water pressure drained and a faucet still open, use a standard tire gauge on the tank’s air valve (it looks like the one on your car tire). The air pressure should read 2 PSI below your pump’s “cut-on” pressure. If your pump turns on at 40 PSI, the tank should read 38 PSI. If it’s low, add air with a bike pump or compressor.

Listening to Your Pump: Sound and Cycle Checks

Turn the pump’s power back on. Listen closely as it runs. A normal submersible pump has a steady, low hum. A normal jet pump is a bit louder but still consistent. Bad sounds are unmistakable: loud grinding, screeching, or a frantic clicking from the control box.

Now, watch the pressure gauge. Flush a toilet to make the pump kick on. It should run, build pressure to its “cut-off” point (often 60 PSI), and shut off. If the pump turns on and off rapidly every minute or two, that’s short cycling. This is hard on the pump and usually points to a waterlogged pressure tank or a failed pressure switch.

Electrical Safety: A Look at the Control Box

For homeowners, this is a visual and smell check only. Look at the box for any signs of melting, dark scorch marks, or heavy corrosion on the wires. Sniff for a sharp, burnt plastic smell. Check that the circuit breaker isn’t tripped.

Do not open the control box to poke around. The internal electrical work is strictly for licensed professionals. If you see or smell anything wrong here, turn the power off and call a pro.

Checking the Pipes and Fittings

Trace all the pipes you can see, from the well head to the pressure tank and into the house. Run your hand along connections and joints. Feel for any moisture or drips. Look for green or white crusty buildup (corrosion) or blue-green stains (from past copper pipe leaks).

Check where the pipe enters the house through the foundation. Look for any signs of past leaking or mineral deposits, which look like white, chalky streaks. A small leak here can let in soil and contaminants.

The DIY vs. Pro Verdict for Well Work

Knowing where to draw the line saves you money, time, and a massive headache. Here’s the clear breakdown of what you can tackle and what demands a professional.

Task Difficulty Ratings

• Visual & Auditory Inspection: 2/10. This is basic observation, no tools required.
• Pressure Switch Adjustment: 4/10. Simple but requires care; turning the wrong nut can cause pump damage.
• Check Valve Location & External Check: 5/10. Involves system knowledge and pipe work, but is often accessible.
• Internal Check Valve Repair/Replacement: 8/10. Requires disassembling the pump column or pitless adapter, specialized tools, and risk of dropping parts down the well.
• Submersible Pump or Deep Component Work: 10/10. Leave it to the pros with a well rig.

Homeowner-Safe Tasks (The DIY Zone)

If you’re comfortable with a multimeter and a wrench, these jobs are within reach.

Your first line of defense is using your eyes and ears. Listen for the pump short-cycling (rapid on/off clicks) or running continuously. Look for water spraying from the pressure switch or pressure tank. Check the pressure gauge; if it won’t hold pressure when the pump is off, you likely have a check valve or tank issue.

Adjusting the pressure switch is a common fix for low or high pressure. You’ll find two nuts under a cover on the switch. The larger nut adjusts the cut-in and cut-out pressure range (e.g., 40/60 psi). The smaller nut adjusts the differential (the spread between those numbers). Turn the larger nut clockwise to increase pressure, counter-clockwise to decrease. Make small, quarter-turn adjustments and let the system cycle to test. This is part of learning how to adjust well pump pressure switch settings for a steady, reliable water supply. Once your settings are dialed in, you can fine-tune for efficiency and long-term performance.

Locating and inspecting the main check valve is often a DIY job. It’s usually on the discharge pipe from the well, before the pressure tank. Look for a brass or stainless steel fitting. Check for any signs of leakage or corrosion at the joints. If it’s a union-style check valve, you can sometimes unscrew it for replacement without major pipe cutting.

When You Must Call a Licensed Well Contractor

This isn’t just about skill, it’s about safety, code, and not ruining a very expensive piece of equipment.

Any major electrical work at the control box or pump requires a pro. We’re dealing with 240-volt circuits, lightning arrestors, and complex relays. One wrong connection can fry the pump motor or create a serious shock hazard.

If the faulty check valve is inside the well casing or part of the submersible pump itself, you need a well rig. Pulling hundreds of feet of pipe and wire is not a backyard project. A licensed contractor has the equipment, insurance, and expertise to pull the pump, replace the valve or pump section, and reinstall it correctly. They also know local codes for wellhead sanitation and proper depth setting.

Diagnosing deep well issues like a fractured pipe, failed pump, or collapsing screen requires professional tools and analysis. An amp probe, pressure transducer, and camera are needed to accurately diagnose problems hundreds of feet underground. Guessing here means paying to pull the pump twice.

Tools & Material Checklist for Basic Checks

Gather your tools before you start. This saves trips back to the garage and makes the inspection go smoothly. You don’t need a lot, but you need the right items.

The Core Tools You Need

Keep these in a small toolbox dedicated to water system work.

• Tire Pressure Gauge: This is for checking your pressure tank’s air charge. The standard dial type works perfectly. Make sure it reads from 0 to at least 100 psi so you can measure both your cut-in and cut-out pressure settings.
• Adjustable Wrench: A 10-inch wrench handles most fittings on a pump system. Two wrenches are better-one to hold the pipe, one to turn the fitting-to prevent twisting and damaging your plumbing.
• Flashlight: A bright, hands-free headlamp is best. You need to see into dark well pits, behind tanks, and check for leaks or corrosion on pipe joints.
• Bucket: Use a 5-gallon bucket to catch water when you drain the pressure tank or bleed a line. It also gives you a clean container to check water clarity from a faucet.
• Multimeter (For Pros): If you’re comfortable with electricity, a multimeter checks voltage at the pressure switch and pump connections. Always turn off power at the breaker before exposing any electrical terminals, and if you’re unsure, call a technician. My first multimeter was a cheap one that gave faulty readings, causing more confusion than help-invest in a decent basic model if you go this route.

Common Replacement Parts to Have On Hand

During an inspection, you might find a worn part. Having these ready can turn a diagnosis into a same-day fix.

• Brass or Stainless Steel Check Valves: These are the workhorses. Brass is common and cost-effective for most applications. Choose a stainless steel check valve if your water has high mineral content or slight acidity, as it will resist corrosion much longer. Avoid plastic check valves for main pump lines; they can fail under constant pressure.
• Pipe Thread Sealant:
  • Use a quality paste-style thread sealant (often called “pipe dope”) that is rated for potable water.
  • It seals better than tape on tapered pipe threads and is less likely to shred and clog small orifices in valves.
  • Apply it to the male threads only, starting from the second thread back to keep excess sealant out of the water line.
• Tank Tees: This single fitting connects your pressure switch, pressure gauge, drain valve, and piping to the tank. If your tank tee is heavily corroded or the ports are stripped, replace the entire tee-it’s the hub of your system’s pressure management. Make sure the new tee has the same port sizes and configuration as the old one.

Understanding and Maintaining the Check Valve

The core maintenance for a check valve is simple: you leave it alone until it shows signs of failure. You do not perform regular maintenance on a working check valve, but you must know how to test for and respond to its failure. Your job is to monitor system pressure and listen for telltale sounds, then be ready to clean or replace the valve.

What a Check Valve Does (And Why it Matters)

Think of a check valve as a one-way door for water. It lets water push up from the pump into your pressure tank and house, then slams shut to stop it all from flowing backward down into the well.

A failed valve that stays open is a disaster for your system. Water rushes back down the pipe when the pump shuts off. This makes the pump start from zero pressure every single time a faucet opens, wearing it out fast. That backflow also causes water hammer, the loud banging in your pipes that sounds like someone hit them with a sledgehammer.

The Water Science Snippet: Pressure and Drawdown

Your system runs on PSI (pounds per square inch). A typical pump turns on at 40 PSI and off at 60 PSI. The “drawdown” is the amount of water your pressure tank delivers between those cycles, which might be 5 to 10 gallons before the pump needs to kick on again.

A solid check valve is what makes this cycle efficient by holding that pressure in the tank and pipes. If the valve leaks, pressure drops slowly while the pump is off. Your pump then cycles on more often to rebuild pressure it shouldn’t have lost, cutting its lifespan and making your water pressure feel weak and pulsing.

How to Test if Your Check Valve is Failing

Use these two simple tests. You only need your ears and your pressure gauge.

• The Listening Test: Do you hear a loud, single BANG in your pipes right after you shut off a washing machine or quickly close a faucet? That’s classic water hammer from a check valve letting water surge backward.
• The Pressure Drop Test:
  1. Make sure no one uses any water, including toilets or ice makers.
  2. Watch the pressure gauge on your tank. Note the PSI.
  3. Turn off the power to the well pump at the breaker box.
  4. Watch the gauge for 2 to 5 minutes. If the pressure steadily drops more than 2-3 PSI, you have a leak, and a faulty check valve is the prime suspect.

Step-by-Step Check Valve Maintenance & Replacement

If you’ve confirmed a leak, you need to inspect the valve. It’s usually on the pipe from the pump, right before or after the pressure tank.

Safety First: Shut off the power to the well pump at the breaker and shut the main water valve to the house. If you’re planning a pump replacement, these precautions prevent shock and leaks during removal. The steps here lay the groundwork for a successful replacement.

1. Open a faucet at the lowest point in your house to drain the pipes and relieve pressure.
2. Using two pipe wrenches (one to hold, one to turn), unscrew the check valve from the piping.
3. Inspect the valve. For a brass spring-and-flapper style, check for cracks, a broken spring, or a worn flapper. Mineral deposits (hard white or green crust) are common.
4. To clean deposits, soak the valve parts in white vinegar for an hour. Use an old toothbrush to gently scrub the seat (the smooth ring the flapper seals against). Do not scratch it.
5. If parts are worn or cleaning doesn’t help, replace the entire valve. The most critical step is installing it in the correct direction: the arrow on the valve body must point UP, in the direction of water flow toward your house.
6. Wrap pipe thread tape clockwise on the male threads, screw the valve in hand-tight, then use a wrench to secure it. Turn the power back on and check for leaks while the system repressurizes.

Code & Compliance Check for Well Components

This isn’t just about what works. It’s about what’s legal and safe. A violation here can lead to contamination or a failed home inspection. I always start with the top of the well.

Well Caps and Pitless Adapters

Your well cap is the primary seal against the outside world. A standard water-tight cap isn’t good enough. It must be a vermin-proof, sanitary well cap that meets local and state codes, which are often based on the ANSI/NSF 61 standard for drinking water system components. Look for a rubber gasket that creates a positive seal and a screened vent that lets the well breathe but keeps bugs out.

Check your cap now. Is it cracked? Is it loose? Are wires or the vent screen compromised? These are direct paths for contamination. The pitless adapter is the fitting below the frost line where the water line exits the well casing. Its O-rings must form a perfect seal. A leak here can pull surface water and fertilizer straight into your drinking supply.

• Inspect the well cap gasket and locking bolts for a tight fit.
• Ensure the vent screen is intact and free of debris or insect nests.
• Verify the pitless adapter is not leaking by checking for damp soil or unusual pooling in the well house.

Electrical Work and the National Electrical Code (NEC)

Well pump electrical is not a place for DIY guesswork. All connections, from the breaker panel to the pressure switch and the pump itself, must comply with the National Electrical Code (NEC). This often means using a dedicated circuit, proper grounding, a weatherproof disconnect, and conduit where required. Additionally, verify the pump’s voltage requirements (typically 120V or 240V) and ensure the circuit matches. Using the wrong voltage can lead to underperformance or equipment damage.

I’ve seen melted pressure switches from undersized wire and failed pumps from improper grounding. If you’re not a licensed electrician, hire one to verify your pump’s electrical system is up to code, especially if your home is older. The cost is minor compared to the risk of fire or electrocution.

• The pump should be on its own circuit breaker in your main panel.
• All outdoor wiring should be in sealed conduit, not exposed Romex.
• The pressure switch and control box (for submersibles) must be mounted securely and protected from moisture.

Check Valves and Potable Water Pipe

Your check valve stops water from flowing backward into the well, which protects the pump. But the materials matter just as much as the function. Every component the water touches, from the check valve to the pipe itself, must be rated for potable water, typically marked NSF/ANSI 61 or NSF-pw. Using non-potable pipe or a standard brass check valve can leach harmful metals into your water.

For most homes, a brass or stainless steel check valve with a rubber seal is standard. The pipe should be schedule 80 PVC, copper, or certified polyethylene (PE) for the drop pipe in the well. Never use garden hose or unmarked plastic pipe.

• Identify the main check valve, usually near the pressure tank.
• Look for NSF/ANSI 61 or “NSF-pw” markings on the valve body and all pipe.
• Listen for a “water hammer” sound when fixtures close; it can mean a failing check valve.

The “Red Flag” Troubleshooting Guide

If your well pump has a problem, it rarely gives you a subtle hint. It screams. These are the big warning signs that demand your attention right now.

1. No Water From Any Faucet

This is the classic, all-hands-on-deck emergency. When you get no water at all, your focus should immediately shift to three main culprits: power, pressure, or the pump itself.

• Likely Cause: Tripped Breaker or Blown Fuse. Go check your electrical panel. If the well pump’s breaker is off, try resetting it. If it trips again instantly, do not keep resetting it. You have a short or a failing pump motor.
• Likely Cause: Lost Prime (for shallow well jets). If you have a jet pump, it needs water in its housing to start. A leak in the suction line can let air in and cause it to lose prime. You’ll hear it running but not pumping.
• Likely Cause: Pump Failure. This is the worst-case scenario. For submersible pumps, a burned-out motor means replacement. For other types, a seized impeller or cracked housing has the same result.

First step is always power. Then, listen. Is the pump even trying to turn on? That answer tells you where to look next.

2. Muddy or Sandy Water

This isn’t just an annoyance, it’s a symptom of a failing well structure or pump. Grit in your water often means sediment is entering the well, which can quickly destroy your pump’s internal components.

• Likely Cause: Falling Well Water Level. If the water level drops near the pump intake, it can start pulling in sediment from the bottom of the well.
• Likely Cause: Failed Well Screen or Casing. The screen filters sediment out. If it’s corroded or the casing is cracked, sand and silt pour right in.
• Likely Cause: Pump is Set Too Low. The pump might be sitting right in the sediment layer at the bottom of the well.

Stop using the water for drinking immediately. You often need a well professional to diagnose this. Running the pump with sandy water will grind it to pieces.

3. Pump Runs Constantly (Short Cycling)

The pump should kick on, build to pressure, and shut off. If it’s running non-stop or turning on and off every minute, you have a pressure problem. Constant running usually means the pump can’t reach its shut-off pressure, which points to a massive leak or a failed pressure switch.

• Likely Cause: Water Leak. This is the most common reason. A burst pipe or a running toilet is draining water as fast as the pump can supply it, so it never builds enough pressure to shut off.
• Likely Cause: Faulty Pressure Switch. This is the brain that tells the pump when to turn on and off. If its contacts are stuck or it’s mis-calibrated, the pump won’t get the signal to stop.
• Likely Cause: Waterlogged Pressure Tank. If the tank’s internal bladder is ruptured, it fills with water and can’t store any pressure. The pump short cycles because it only has the volume of a pipe, not a tank.

Walk your property looking for soggy ground. Listen for toilets running. Check if your pressure tank sounds solid when you tap it (it should sound hollow).

4. Tripped Circuit Breaker

The breaker is a safety device. When it trips, it’s telling you the circuit is overloaded. A breaker that trips repeatedly is protecting your home from a faulty pump or wiring; ignoring it can start a fire.

• Likely Cause: Pump Motor is Failing. As a motor dies, its windings can short, causing a massive, instant power draw that trips the breaker.
• Likely Cause: Wiring Damage. The wire from the house to the well can get nicked, corrode, or be chewed by animals, causing a short.
• Likely Cause: Lightning/Surge Damage. A nearby strike can fry the pump’s electronics and cause a direct short.

Do not just keep resetting the breaker. You need a multimeter to test for a short. This is often a job for an electrician or pump pro.

5. Spitting or Sputtering Faucets

Air in your lines makes faucets cough and sputter. This air has to come from somewhere in your pressurized system. Air in your pipes almost always means a leak on the suction side of the pump, letting air in instead of water out.

• Likely Cause: Low Well Water Level. The pump is drawing air because the water level has dropped below the foot valve or pump intake.
• Likely Cause: Leak in the Suction Line (Jet Pumps). Any crack or loose fitting on the pipe between the pump and the well will suck in air.
• Likely Cause: Failed Check Valve. If the check valve on the pump discharge is leaking, water can flow back into the well at night. When the pump starts, it has to push that air column first, causing sputtering.

Check your pressure gauge while the pump is running. If it’s bouncing erratically, you’ve got air in the system. The leak is often at the wellhead or in the pitless adapter.

Recommended Products for Reliability

Your inspection is only as good as the parts you’re checking. Using cheap components is a shortcut to more service calls. Investing in a few key quality products now can prevent the majority of common well system failures down the line. I stock these same parts in my service truck for a reason.

Brass or Stainless Steel Check Valves

The check valve is your system’s backstop. It stops water from flowing backwards down the well, which protects the pump from burning out. Plastic check valves are common in pre-built systems, but they’re the first thing I replace.

A brass or stainless steel check valve will outlast a plastic one by years, resisting mineral scale and providing a stronger seal to prevent water hammer. Look for a valve with a clear flow direction arrow stamped on the body.

• Installation Tip: Always install it in the correct flow direction (arrow pointing up from the pump). A backwards check valve is worse than having none at all.
• Maintenance Check: If you hear a loud “thump” when other water fixtures shut off, your check valve might be failing and slamming closed. It’s time for an inspection.

Corrosion-Resistant Tank Tees

This fitting connects your pressure tank, pressure switch, pressure gauge, and drain valve. It’s the hub of your above-ground system. A corroded tee can crack, leak, or clog with rust.

I only use brass tank tees. They handle the pressure and resist corrosion from moisture in the air. Avoid galvanized steel tees. The zinc coating wears off, and they rust from the inside out, often failing where you can’t see it.

A quality brass tee has solid, reinforced mounting for the pressure switch and multiple ports for easy gauge and drain valve installation. When inspecting, look for any green or white crusty deposits (verdigris) or moisture around the connections; these are early signs of a slow leak.

High-Quality Pressure Gauges

That little dial is your system’s dashboard. A sticky or inaccurate gauge leaves you guessing. A good gauge lets you see problems like a failing pressure tank bladder or a stuck pressure switch immediately.

Spend a few extra dollars on a glycerin-filled pressure gauge with a brass bottom connection. The glycerin fluid dampens the needle vibration, making it easier to get a steady, accurate reading and dramatically extending the gauge’s life. The cheap dry gauges often freeze up or bounce so much you can’t tell what the real pressure is.

To check your gauge’s accuracy, shut off power to the pump, drain the system to 0 PSI, and see if the needle rests on zero. If it doesn’t, replace the gauge. It’s lying to you.

Choosing a Pressure Tank Bladder Material

Inside your pressure tank, a rubber bladder holds air on one side and water on the other. The material of this bladder determines how long your tank will last and how much water it can effectively hold.

Standard bladders are often made from butyl rubber or a blend. For the longest service life and best performance, insist on a butyl rubber bladder. Butyl is more flexible and far more resistant to water absorption and chlorine degradation than cheaper materials.

A bladder that absorbs water becomes heavy, less flexible, and can rupture. When inspecting, if your tank feels heavy for its size or you get very short cycles (the pump turning on and off rapidly), the bladder is likely waterlogged and the tank needs replacement. You can also manually check the bladder in your pressure tank to confirm its condition.

When you buy a new tank, the product specifications will list the bladder material. Butyl is worth seeking out. It’s the one in the well tank at my own house.

System Maintenance Roadmap

Your well system works hard all year. A little regular attention prevents big, expensive problems. Think of this as your annual home checkup.

Your Simple Annual Checkup

Pick a day each spring or fall. Go through this list. It takes about an hour and can save you thousands.

1. Check Pressure Tank Air Charge

This is the most common source of “well pump problems.” The tank’s internal air bladder supports the pump. If the air pressure is wrong, the pump cycles on and off too fast. This kills the pump motor.

Here is how to check it.

1. Turn off the pump’s circuit breaker.
2. Open a faucet to drain all water pressure from the pipes. Let it run until it stops.
3. Find the tank’s air valve (it looks like a tire valve). Use a standard tire gauge to check the pressure.

The air pressure must be 2 psi below the pump’s cut-on pressure. If your pump turns on at 40 psi, the tank should read 38 psi. If it’s low, use a bicycle pump or small compressor to add air. If no air holds, the bladder is ruptured and the tank needs replacement. See how to check and set the air pressure in water tanks.

2. Inspect The Well Cap

The well cap is the sealed lid on top of the well casing, usually in your yard. Its job is to keep out insects, surface water, and contaminants.

• Look for cracks, gaps, or a loose fit.
• Check that the vent screen (a small mesh covering) is clean and intact. Bugs love to build nests here.
• Clear away any grass, leaves, or dirt piled against the casing.

A damaged cap is a direct path for contamination into your drinking water. Replace a cracked or ill fitting cap immediately.

3. Test Water Quality

You cannot always taste or see problems. Annual testing gives you a baseline.

At a minimum, test for total coliform bacteria and nitrates each year. These are common health-related contaminants. You can use a state certified lab or a reputable DIY mail in kit. If you notice new stains, odors, or sediment, test for iron, manganese, and sulfur bacteria, too. Keep a file of your results to spot trends.

4. Listen For Unusual Sounds

Your ears are great diagnostic tools. With the pump running, listen at the pressure tank and where the pipe enters the house.

• Rapid clicking (cycling) every minute or less usually points to a waterlogged pressure tank or a failed pressure switch.
• Constant humming without water flowing means the pump is stuck trying to start, often due to a capacitor issue.
• Knocking or chattering can signal a failing check valve or water hammer.

Unusual noise rarely fixes itself. Note what you hear for when you call a pro.

Professional Service Interval

Even with perfect annual care, you need a professional eye every 3 to 5 years. A technician has tools and tests you don’t.

A full system check by a well contractor will assess components you cannot easily see, like the pump’s electrical draw and the well’s actual water production rate. They can pull and inspect the check valve, measure the depth to water, and check for scale or corrosion in the drop pipe. This proactive service catches wear before it becomes a catastrophic failure at 2 AM on a holiday. Budget for it.

When NOT to Try This Yourself

I love a good DIY project. But some jobs have a hard stop for homeowners. Messing with the well itself is one of them. Knowing your limits protects your water supply, your wallet, and your life.

Do Not Open the Well Seal

The well seal is the critical barrier between your clean water and everything else. It’s the gasketed plate or cap on top of the well casing at the surface. Opening it breaks the sanitary seal.

Once that seal is broken, anything can fall or wash in-dirt, insects, surface water, fertilizers. You are creating a direct path for contamination into your aquifer. This isn’t a simple fix; correcting contamination often requires shocking the entire well system with chlorine and extensive testing, or worse, a new well. Only a licensed well professional should ever remove the well seal.

Do Not Work on Submersible Pump Wiring in the Well

That wiring runs down the well to the pump, hundreds of feet deep and submerged in water. Even with the breaker off, there are significant risks.

• You are working in a confined, wet space with 230-volt electrical connections.
• Pulling up the pump to access wiring requires specialized tools and can damage the pipe and wire.
• A mistake can electrocute you or short the pump, turning a wiring fix into a full pump replacement job.

Any electrical diagnosis or repair below the well head is strictly a pro job.

Do Not Attempt Major Plumbing Without Proper Skills

Inspecting the check valve on the discharge pipe is one thing. Replumbing the entire pressure tank setup is another. Major plumbing involves:

• Soldering or threading pipe correctly to prevent leaks.
• Understanding proper pipe support and alignment to avoid stress.
• Knowing local code requirements for well system components and placement.

A small leak under pressure can flood a basement in minutes. If you’re not confident sweating copper or making leak-proof threaded connections, call a plumber for the big stuff.

The Real Risks: Contamination and Electrocution

These aren’t just warnings on paper. I’ve seen the aftermath.

Contamination is silent and serious. A compromised well seal led to coliform bacteria in a neighbor’s water. They spent over $2,000 on professional disinfection, new components, and repeated lab tests before it was safe to drink again.

Electrocution is immediate and deadly. Water and electricity are a fatal combination. A homeowner once tried to check submersible pump wires with a multimeter and got a severe shock that threw him off his ladder. He was lucky. Faulty well wiring can also energize the entire plumbing system, making every faucet a potential hazard.

Your role is inspector and maintainer of the above-ground equipment. Leave the work inside the well to the experts with the right tools, licensing, and insurance. It’s the smartest DIY decision you can make.

What Helped Me: A Pro-Tip from the Field

When I bought my house, the well pump had a bad habit. It would turn on and off every few minutes, day and night. This constant cycling is a sure sign of trouble. It wears out the pump motor and wastes electricity.

I suspected a faulty check valve letting water drain back down the well. After locating the wellhead (buried under a pile of leaves), I confirmed it. Replacing that single $20 check valve at the pitless adapter stopped the cycling immediately. A simple, inexpensive part saved my pump from an early death and cut my power bill.

I now mark my wellhead with a tall, painted metal stake. I never lose it under leaves or snow. This one act makes every future inspection or repair ten times faster.

How to Inspect and Maintain Your Check Valve

Think of the check valve as a one-way gate for your water. It opens to let water be pumped up, then slams shut to hold that water in the pipes. When it fails, your system loses pressure and the pump works overtime.

Step 1: Listen and Look for the Signs

Your system will tell you when the check valve needs attention. Here is what to watch for:

• Pump Cycling: The pump starts and stops more often than normal, especially when no water is being used in the house.
• Pressure Drop: You hear the pressure switch click on shortly after using water, indicating pressure bled away quickly.
• Water Hammer: You hear a loud bang in the pipes when a faucet is shut off fast. This can be caused by a valve slamming shut against reverse flow.
• Spitting Faucets: Air comes out of your faucets when you first turn them on.

Step 2: The Drain-Down Test

This is the definitive field test for a leaky check valve. You need a pressure gauge on your tank’s air valve.

1. Shut off power to the well pump at the breaker box. Safety first.
2. Open a hose bib or faucet somewhere downstream from the pressure tank to drain the system pressure to zero.
3. Close the faucet. Watch the pressure gauge. If the needle starts to climb back up on its own, water is flowing backwards through a failed check valve and re-pressurizing the tank.
4. Listen at the wellhead. If you hear water running back down the well pipe, that confirms it.

If your system fails this test, you have a faulty check valve that needs replacement.

Step 3: Replacement and Best Practices

Most homes have a primary check valve built into the submersible pump itself, and often a second one above ground near the pressure tank. The above-ground one is the easiest to service.

• Use a brass or stainless-steel valve. Avoid plastic for this critical component.
• Install it in the correct direction (flow arrow points toward the pressure tank).
• Support the piping on either side so the valve isn’t bearing the weight of the pipes.
• Consider installing a union fitting before and after the valve. This lets you replace it in the future without cutting all the pipe.

For submersible pump check valves, replacement usually means pulling the pump. That is a bigger job. If you have an above-ground valve and it fixes the problem, you might not need to touch the one on the pump. Sometimes the issue is more than a valve and calls for a repair or rebuild of the submersible well pump. We’ll cover repair and rebuild options for submersible pumps in the next steps.

Make checking for pump cycling part of your monthly routine. Listen for it when you are in the basement or near the pressure tank. Catching a failing check valve early is one of the simplest, most cost-effective forms of pump maintenance you can do.

When to Seek Professional Help Immediately

Some pump problems are bigger than a Saturday DIY fix. Knowing when to call saves you time, money, and a major headache. If you see, hear, or suspect any of the following, put the wrench down and pick up the phone for a licensed well professional.

Electrical Issues

Water and electricity are a dangerous mix. If you see scorched wires at the pressure switch or control box, smell burning insulation, or the circuit breaker trips repeatedly, stop. Do not attempt to troubleshoot live electrical components; shut off power at the breaker and call a pro. They have the tools and training to diagnose a failed capacitor, shorted motor winding, or faulty wiring safely.

No Water at All

If you have zero water from every faucet, you’ve already checked the main house shutoff and the breaker is on, the problem is likely at the well. A complete loss of water often points to a failed pump motor, a broken drop pipe, or a severely compromised well yield. These are deep-well issues requiring specialized equipment to pull the pump and diagnose. Trying to do this yourself risks damaging the well or the equipment.

Signs of Contamination

Your well water should be clear and odorless. If you suddenly see sand, sediment, or rust in your water, or smell sulfur (rotten eggs) or fuel, do not use the water. Sudden changes in water quality can indicate a cracked well casing, a failed sanitary seal, or groundwater infiltration. A professional can run tests, inspect the wellhead, and determine the source of contamination to protect your household’s health.

You Feel Uncomfortable

This is the most important rule. If any step feels over your head, stop. There is no shame in calling for backup; it’s the smart move. Pulling a deep-well submersible pump requires a rig and know-how. Diagnosing a subtle pressure tank bladder failure takes experience. I’ve called other techs for second opinions on my own system. A good pro gets you clean water flowing again, safely.

Complex Internal Failures

You might hear the pump running but get little pressure, or hear a loud grinding noise. A professional can quickly diagnose internal failures like a worn impeller, damaged diffuser, or seized bearing that are not practical to fix in-place. They have the parts and the bench space to rebuild the pump or recommend a correct replacement, ensuring it matches your well’s depth and home’s demand.

For deep well systems, the check valve is another critical component that often needs a pro. While a single check valve at the pump is standard, if you have multiple valves and are experiencing water hammer or pressure loss, a technician can locate and test each one. A faulty check valve can cause the pump to cycle excessively, wasting energy and leading to premature failure. They’ll find the bad valve, often in the well itself, and replace it correctly during a pump pull.

Common Questions

What’s the most obvious sign my check valve is failing during an inspection?

Listen for water hammer-a loud bang in your pipes right after a faucet shuts off. Also, if your pump kicks on more often than normal when no water is being used, that’s a classic symptom. These signs mean the valve isn’t holding pressure, so your pump is constantly refilling the lines.

What kind of check valve should I buy for a replacement?

Always choose a brass or stainless steel valve rated for potable water (look for NSF/ANSI 61 marking). Stainless steel is best for water with high minerals or slight acidity. Avoid plastic valves for the main discharge line, as they can fail under constant pressure.

Should I try to clean a check valve or just replace it?

If it’s an above-ground valve with minor mineral scale, soaking it in vinegar and gently scrubbing the seat can work. However, if the internal spring is weak, the flapper is cracked, or corrosion is heavy, replacement is the reliable fix. Your time is often better spent installing a new, robust valve.

Why are there sometimes two check valves in a system?

Many submersible pumps have one built into the pump itself. An additional valve is often installed above ground, near the pressure tank, as a secondary backup and for easier service. The above-ground valve is the one you can maintain; if it fixes the problem, you likely don’t need to touch the one in the well.

When I inspect, how long should the pump run to fill the tank?

A normal cycle for a standard residential system is about 1-2 minutes from when it turns on (e.g., 40 PSI) until it shuts off (e.g., 60 PSI). If it runs continuously for over 2 minutes, you may have a massive leak, a failing pump, or a severely waterlogged tank that can’t accept water. That’s a red flag needing immediate attention.

Stay Proactive with Your Well Pump and Check Valve

Always check your pump’s pressure and listen for strange sounds during every inspection. Keep the check valve clean and test it often to stop backflow and spare your pump from extra work.